Restaurant Review: 22 Bowens Wine Bar & Grille - Newport, RI

To use a probably trademarked and copyrighted slogan: "Beef. It's what's for dinner." That is the theme of 22 Bowens Wine Bar & Grille. Serving only USDA Prime grade beef, you can be certain of a quality meal. During the height of summer, this eatery (and Newport, in general) may be crowded and hectic. In the middle of winter, however, it is cozy and relaxing with a nice view of the water.

Regardless of the time of year you go, the food is always fantastic. It is apparent that the meals are prepared with a commitment to quality and attention to detail. What this means to you is that "rare" means rare. This is a welcome change from the typical dining experience. In most restaurants today, you can be glad if you receive something that remotely resembles beef when you order steak.

In this particular instance, my wife had the steak and scallop special which was thoroughly enjoyed by her. I ordered the veal ribs cooked rare and only had one small complaint. Anyone who cooks or grills ribs will know that there is a tough membrane on one side of the ribs. This tissue will dissolve around 180-190 degrees. If your meat will not be cooked to this temperature, it needs to be removed. In the case of my ribs, it was not removed. Since I had them cooked rare, it was quite difficult to separate the bones with anything other than my teeth, which traditional etiquette would say is improper.

Even with the challenge of my entree, I enjoyed my meal. Most especially, I enjoyed my dessert. I had a delicious Bailey's Pot De Creme (aka, custard) with chocolate-covered espresso beans and whipped cream on top. Overall, the prices are a bit high, but not out of reason for the Newport area. I would have to say that 22 Bowens would be one of the best places around to get a high quality meal.